Hair Structure 101: What Your Strands Are Really Made Of

Healthy hair starts with understanding how your hair is built. At Hello Texture, we don’t just treat what we see — we treat the structure underneath. Once you understand how hair is formed, it’s easier to see why deep conditioning, bond repair, and scalp care actually matter.

Let’s break it down.

 The 3 Layers of the Hair Strand

1. The Cuticle (Outer Layer)

This is the protective layer made up of tiny overlapping scales — like shingles on a roof.

• What it does: Shields the inner layers from damage, controls shine and moisture retention.

• When damaged: Hair becomes rough, dull, frizzy, and prone to breakage.

• How we treat it: With pH-balancing conditioners, sealing oils, and heat-protected styling.

2. The Cortex (Middle Layer)

This is the thickest layer, and where your hair’s strength, elasticity, curl pattern, and color live.

• What it does: Houses protein bonds (keratin), which give hair structure.

• When damaged: You’ll experience breakage, color fading, and limp or mushy hair.

• How we treat it: With protein-based treatments, bond reconstructors, and heat-controlled styling.

3. The Medulla (Inner Core)

Often absent in finer textures, this is the innermost layer and least understood.

• What it does: Provides flexibility and overall thickness — though not every strand has one.

• How we treat it: Most deep treatments don’t penetrate this layer, but overall strand strength depends on cuticle and cortex health.

Why This Matters for Textured Hair

Textured hair tends to have a raised cuticle layer, which means:

• It loses moisture faster

• It’s more vulnerable to breakage

• It requires strategic sealing to retain hydration

This is why simply “putting product” on your hair doesn’t always work. If the cuticle is damaged, your products won’t penetrate. If the cortex is weakened, your hair will keep breaking — no matter how moisturized it feels.

 How Hello Texture Uses This Science

At Hello Texture, we apply this knowledge every day through:

• Porosity testing to understand cuticle condition

• Bond repair treatments for damaged cortices

• Customized moisture + protein layering

• Heat-controlled tools to avoid unnecessary cuticle damage

• Education for our clients, so they stop wasting money on ineffective products

We don’t do guesswork — we do structure-based care.

 Book a Consultation or Hair Analysis

Not sure what’s going on beneath the surface? We’ll help you decode it.

Book via Fresha or DM us @hellotexture_salon.